Rejuvenating our Souls in St. Giles Kirk: Edinburgh

I don’t know why this is, but whenever Jim and I find ourselves exhausted, jet-lagged and unable to check into our hotel because of the early hour we have arrived in Europe, we find ourselves gravitating to a cathedral.  It might be that the peaceful atmosphere and graceful vaulted interiors studded with jewel windows create just the right atmosphere to quell throbbing heads and relax aching backs, and they usually offer a place to sit and restore our tired souls.

Edinburgh Scotland was no different because after filling our stomachs with a hearty Scottish breakfast and hot English breakfast tea, we walked to the Royal Mile where the unusual crown-shaped tower of St. Giles Kirk caught our eye and lured us into its vast interior.

While the church is said to date from around 1124, little is known of this church since it was almost entirely rebuilt at the end of the 14th century.  The elegant Gothic church spire is topped by its crown shaped “lantern” built in 1490, has been changed and added to over the centuries.  The last renovation at the end of the 19th century brought the installation of the stained glass windows you see today.

St Giles' was founded in the 1120s when the Scottish royal family, the sons of Queen Margaret and King Malcolm Canmore, made great efforts to spread Catholic Christian worship throughout the Scottish lowlands. 

The patron saint of the city of Edinburgh is St Giles and the church was named after him.  St. Giles was a 7th century hermit (and, later, abbot) who lived in France, some say that the fact that he became the patron of both town and church was probably due to the ancient ties between Scotland and France.

Caught in the tug-of-war of the Scottish royal succession and then later the reformation, the church was actually a cathedral only twice in its long 900 year history both times during the 17th century under Episcopalian monarchs.

In 1559, at the height of the Scottish Reformation, the fiery Protestant leader John Knox was chosen to be the minister at St. Giles by Edinburgh's Town Council.  During this time, relics were sold, and church treasures were melted down in accordance with protestant teachings.

Even though centuries of renovation have changed the church greatly over time, it remains a beautiful space where you can find fascinating remnants of past ages, like the tomb of the Marquess of Montrose. 

In 1638, those opposed to King Charles’ plans to reintroduce the Episcopal church in Scotland signed the National Covenant.   They were called “The Covenanters” and were strict reformers.  Montrose felt they were excessive in their zeal and broke with them to support and lead the royalist army. 

Montrose was imprisoned and finally executed outside St Giles' at the Mercat Cross in 1650, and his head was placed on a spike outside the church. After the Restoration of King Charles II in 1660, Montrose's head and body were exhumed and placed in St Giles' with full honors. The marble tomb effigy lies peacefully in the small aisle chapel.

By the time we finished exploring St. Giles Kirk and listening to the musicians practice their Christmas hymns, we were back in “traveler” mode with our sense of awe and wonder back in place, knowing that so many incredible experiences were waiting for us......... right after our nap!   So we headed back to the hotel hoping our room was finally ready for us.